Used Motor Grader Buying Guide for India: What to Check

What should you check on a used motor grader?

Check the blade and the circle first, then the frame, then the engine. That order is the opposite of how most buyers inspect a machine, and it is the right one for a grader: a tired engine is a known cost, while a worn circle is an open-ended one. Work through it like this.

• Moldboard thickness. Measure the blade with a vernier or a steel rule at the middle and at both ends. Compare it against what that model published new; the figures are in the next section. A blade worn thin in the middle has done a lot of hours in abrasive material.
• Cutting edge and end bits. These bolt-on wear bars along the bottom and corners of the blade are meant to be replaced, so worn ones are not a fault. But they are a cost you inherit on day one, and a seller who has run them to the bolt holes has probably run everything else down too.
• The circle. Ask the operator to rotate the blade a full turn, both ways, and watch it. It should turn smoothly at a steady speed. A circle that jerks, groans or stops in one spot has worn teeth or a worn drive. Then get under the machine and push the blade sideways by hand. Free play at the circle means the wear inserts are gone.
• The articulation joint. A grader bends in the middle to reach past its own wheels. Ask for full articulation, left and right, and look for play, cracked welds or fresh paint around the pins.
• Tandem housings. The two rear wheels on each side sit in a sealed oil housing with chains inside. Look for oil weeping from the seals and listen for chain rattle when the machine moves off. A tandem rebuild is one of the biggest bills on a grader.
• Frame, hydraulics and tyres. Sight along the front frame; it should be straight, with no repair welds at the lift cylinder mounts. Work every hydraulic function through its full travel, then hold the blade up and watch for drift. And check all six tyres match in size and ply rating, because on a grader they are a real cost. The sizes and ply ratings each model actually takes are set out in the motor grader tyre size guide.

The checks common to any second-hand machine (hour meter, oil condition, cold start, service records) are in our used equipment inspection checklist. This page covers what that checklist does not: the parts only a grader has.

How much blade is left, and why thickness is the number to measure

Moldboard thickness is the most useful number on a used grader, because it is one of the few wear figures you can measure yourself and compare against a published new value. A blade wears from the bottom up and the middle out. Once thin, it flexes under load, the cut wanders, and the machine stops holding a level, which is the only thing you bought it for.

Of the 42 motor graders listed on DesiMachines, 27 publish a moldboard thickness. Setting aside two machines explained below, the other 25 run from 16 mm to 25 mm when new. The Indian-built and India-assembled ranges from Mahindra, Fine, BEML, ACE and CASE sit across that same 16 mm to 25 mm span.

The arithmetic is simple. If the model published 20 mm new and your rule reads 14 mm, roughly a third of the blade is gone. That is not a reason to walk away, but it is a reason to price the machine as one that needs a moldboard before it needs anything else.

Below the moldboard sits the cutting edge, the replaceable steel bar that touches the ground. Twenty-one of the 42 machines publish a size for it, and 14 of those are 152 mm wide, the common size on the machines an Indian road contractor buys. Bigger machines step up to 203, 254 and 330 mm. Knowing the size tells you what a replacement set costs and whether your local supplier stocks it, and our spare parts guide explains what to check before you fit a part. What the blade can reach and how deep it cuts are set out in motor grader cutting depth and blade reach.

Table 1: What a motor grader spec sheet publishes, across the 42 machines listed

Two machines sit outside that span. The Cat 24M publishes a 50 mm moldboard, which is real: it is a 65,840 kg (65.8 Tonne) mining machine on a 7,300 mm blade, in a class of its own. The Cat 120 GC publishes 6 mm, which agrees neither with its class nor with its sibling the Cat 120, a machine carrying the same 3,700 mm blade. We have flagged that figure for the catalogue team rather than adjust it here, and left it out of the span. If you are looking at a 120 GC, ask the dealer to confirm the new thickness in writing.

What is the circle, and why does it decide the price?

The circle is the large toothed ring under the front frame that the moldboard hangs from, and it is what lets the blade swing to any angle. A hydraulic motor drives it through a gearbox, and the ring rides on replaceable wear inserts. It is the part of a grader with no equivalent on any other machine, and it is where a cheap second-hand grader turns expensive. The circle, the drawbar and those wear inserts are named and explained in the guide to motor grader parts and components.

Wear shows up in three ways, and you can find all three in ten minutes.

• Rotation that is not smooth. Turn the blade a full circle each way. Hesitation in one part of the sweep means worn teeth at that point.
• Free play. With the blade off the ground, push it sideways and fore-and-aft. Movement at the circle rather than at the cylinders means the wear inserts have gone.
• A blade that will not hold its angle. Set the blade at an angle, take a cut, and see whether it stays put. A worn circle lets the blade creep under load, and operator skill does not fix that.

The circle drive gearbox has its own oil. Fourteen of the 42 listed machines publish a circle reverse housing capacity, running from 1.5 litres to 27.5 litres by machine size. Ask when it was last changed: it is a small service that gets skipped for years, and skipping it is what wears the drive. The full service picture is in our reference on motor grader fuel tank and oil capacities, and how the circle fits into the rest of the machine is explained in how motor graders work.

How many hours is too many on a used motor grader?

There is no single number, and a seller who gives you one is guessing. The hour meter counts engine hours, and a grader idles a great deal: waiting for tippers, waiting for the roller ahead, moving between stretches. Two machines showing 6,000 hours can have done very different amounts of work.

What the hours are good for is asking better questions. A machine with 6,000 hours and a folder of job cards is a known machine; one with 3,000 hours and no records is an unknown, and should be priced as an unknown. Ask what the grader was doing: finishing formation on link roads is an easier life than holding levels on a mine haul road in rock.

Match the hours against the wear you measured. A nearly-new blade at 8,000 hours means someone spent money recently, and that is worth paying for. A worn-out blade at 2,000 hours means either the hours are not the real hours or the machine has been working somewhere very abrasive. Either way the meter reading has stopped being the important number.

What does a new motor grader cost in India?

You need this before you can judge a used price, because a second-hand figure only means something next to the new one for its class. Thirty-three of the 42 graders listed publish a price; the other nine are on request.

Table 2: New motor grader price bands, a sample across the range

Two things about these figures. The Mahindra Roadmaster G80 is quoted as an onwards starting price rather than a band, so treat it as a floor rather than as what the machine will actually cost you. And these are ex-factory prices. A motor grader runs on wheels and is registered for the road, so getting it working also means transportation, RTO registration, TCS, warranty, insurance and any fitment charges on top.

A wider view of the range, with the class and brand picture, is in our guide to motor grader types, brands and prices, and the new-machine selection questions are covered in the motor grader buying guide.

How much should a used motor grader cost?

Work down from the new band for the same class, then adjust for what it will cost to put right. We do not publish used prices, because a used price is set by one machine’s history, not by its model.

Four things move the number, roughly in this order.

• Circle condition. The biggest single swing on a grader, and the hardest to judge from a photograph. A tight circle is worth a great deal more than a loose one.
• Blade thickness against the published new figure. A moldboard is a straightforward replacement, so it belongs in the price rather than in the argument.
• Tandem housings and final drives. Leaks here are cheap to spot and expensive to cure. Ask whether either side has been opened.
• Papers and finance status. A machine with a clean RC in the seller’s name and the hypothecation removed is a different proposition from one where the loan is still running.

Ask for the last three service bills, the tandem and circle history, and the date the moldboard was last changed, all in writing. With them, the price discussion is straightforward. Without them you are pricing an unknown, and the discount has to cover the worst case rather than the likely one.

Money works differently second-hand. Our note on loans for used construction equipment explains why the tenure and down payment differ, and the equipment finance and equipment insurance pages cover what lenders and insurers ask to see.

Which size of used motor grader should you buy?

Buy for the widest road you grade regularly, not the widest one you have ever graded. Twenty-nine of the 42 listed machines sit between 9,000 kg and 18,000 kg, the Indian mainstream: a machine on a 12 ft blade of about 3,660 mm, which covers everything up to a two-lane road.

Blade width decides how many passes a road takes, and passes decide your day. The pass counts by road width and blade size are worked out in our guide to motor grader productivity and output; the weight and size classes are set out in motor grader weight and dimensions. Six of the listed machines publish two different blade widths for the same grader, so confirm the figure with the dealer before you commit.

Second-hand adds one question a new purchase does not: parts availability for that brand in your district. A cheaper grader from a brand with no service presence within a day’s drive is not cheaper.

Two decisions are worth settling first. If your grader work is a few weeks a year, taking a motor grader on rent is usually the better answer. And if what you need is bulk earth moved rather than levels held, read motor grader vs bulldozer first, because the two machines are not substitutes.

Which papers must come with a used motor grader?

A motor grader is a registered road vehicle, so the paperwork is heavier than on a tracked machine, and it is where used deals most often come apart. Ask for all of it before you pay anything.

• Registration certificate (RC) in the seller’s name, matching the chassis and engine numbers stamped on the machine. Check them physically.
• Form 29 and Form 30, the transfer forms, signed by the seller.
• Hypothecation removal, if the machine was ever financed. A running loan on the RC means the lender still has a claim.
• Insurance, and whether it can be transferred to you.
• Original purchase invoice, which establishes the machine’s real age.
• Service records and job cards, the only evidence of what the hour meter means.

The transfer process, including hypothecation removal, is set out step by step in our owner’s guide to RC transfer and hypothecation removal. Do not pay the balance until the transfer is filed.

Is a used motor grader worth buying?

For most small and mid-sized road contractors in India, yes, provided the circle is sound and the papers are clean. A grader is a simple machine built around one complicated joint. Engine, transmission and hydraulics are repairable at predictable cost, and a blade is a replaceable part. The circle and the frame are what you are really buying, and both last a long time on a serviced machine. Where a used grader goes wrong is when a buyer treats it like a used excavator: checks the hours, checks the engine, takes the blade at face value and never turns the circle. Ten minutes rotating the blade and pushing it sideways tells you more about the next three years than the hour meter will.

Browse the full range of motor graders and prices and talk to a dealer, or start from the complete used construction equipment buying guide if you are still choosing a machine.

Buying a used motor grader, in short

Check the blade and the circle before the engine, because on a grader that is where the money is. Measure the moldboard against the published new thickness, rotate the blade a full turn each way and push it sideways, and look for oil at the tandem housings and cracks at the articulation joint. Treat the hours as a question and the service records as the answer. Then work the price down from the new band for the same class, and settle the RC, Form 29 and 30 and the hypothecation removal before the final payment.

Other machines in this series: used road roller, used wheel loader and used concrete pump. If you are buying second-hand for the first time, start with how to buy used construction equipment in India.

Prices, specifications and features are indicative, vary by variant, location and date, and should always be confirmed with the official OEM or authorised dealer before any purchase decision. DesiMachines is not liable for decisions taken on the basis of information that may have changed after publication.